Mt. Regan

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We narrowly survive a roped climb of Mt. Regan.

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The pictures of Mt. Regan are all from a more recent trip, except for the last one of me signing the summit register. As such, they show a dry mountain in August. This climb actually took place in late May or early June, right after High School classes were out.

Jerry and I had just finished our Junior year of high school. There was still lots of snow in the Sawtooths. I remember post-holing around Sawtooth Lake in the afternoon with full packs. And the lake was frozen over.

But the next morning, the lake was solid as we hiked up to the north ridge and began our climb.

About half-way up the ridge, here is a large notch. When we were there, the notch was partially filled with snow. Climbing up from the right, we rappelled down into the notch, pulled our 120' goldline rope, and continued up to the left on our way to the summit.

Here I am signing the summit register. At least I think this is the summit of Regan. It was more than 40 years ago and the picture was not labelled, so I could be wrong. But the combination of rope around my waist, home-made gaitors, and woolies from the Salvo certainly makes this the right time frame.

When we got back th the notch, we immediately saw our mistake. The wall we had rappelled was overhanging, and there was no obvious way around it. Inobvious, either. We tried several stupid stunts to get up, including lassoing a horn that we used to provide a top-rope belay for Jerry. When he fell off the overhang and was hanging in mid-air while being strangled by the bowline-on-a-coil around his waist, things got desperate.

In our next attempt, he almost fell onto the snow in the gap, which would have provided a quick bobsled out onto the face. Ah, youth.

We eventually engineered ourselves out of the gap and returned to camp, but I can't remember exactly how. Ah, old age.

 

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